We drove from Cavendish, Prince Edward Island to Hilden, Novia Scotia today. We mostly saw rolling hills and fields of crops. We are close to the Bay of Fundy, where some of us are going to river raft up the river on the tidal bore. That is when the tide comes in and forces a river to run backward for a while and in the process creates fairly large waves which gives an exciting ride. They have very high tides here.
I wrote a few notes on things to mention:
*The bridge between New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island is nine miles long. It cost us $59. to cross from Prince Edward to New Brunswick (Caravan reimbursed us). That is the two way toll.
*A Canadian dollar is worth just a penny or two less than a dollar
*Gas is costing us about $5.50/ gallon ($1.39/liter)
*Food and wine prices are higher in Canada than in the USA.
*The furniture in the Anne of Green Gables house is period appropriate, not original
*A few people on Prince Edward Island learned how to domesticate silver foxes. For a few years, people made fortunes, because the 6 people breeding them, agreed not to sell breeding stock. Eventually, one individual sold a pair to a nephew. He started selling breeding stock. Once everyone could afford a fox fur, prices plummeted and World War I started. After 1914, most people stopped raising foxes, because it cost more to sell them than it cost to raise them. Foxes were let lose on the Island. Silver fox fur is beautiful (silver on black).
*The past week we have enjoyed a lot of seafood--oyster grilled on the grill, lobster, scallops, cod, mussels.
*Electricity on Prince Edward Island is a lot more expensive than in Quebec Province, where it costs 4-6 cents/kilowatt. Islanders are putting up wind turbines.
*Farmers on Prince Edward Island are required to rotate crops in a three year cycle, because potatoes, the money making crop, takes too much out of the land. It is rotated with a grain crop and a grass crop.
*At a couple of nature centers we have used an decomposing toilet. Human waste is allowed to naturally decompose and is used in some way. No water or chemicals are used in the process. One center even collected rain water, which they piped to the bathrooms for hand washing.
July 16, 2013
We left Prince Edward Island
in morning and recrossed Confederation
Bridge. New Brunswick and then entered Nova Scotia
July 17 – Hilden and Tidal Bore at mouth of Shubenacadie River
I went into town and hiked in Victoria Park with two other women. Some kids with parents were playing in the water below the falls. Later in the afternoon, we heard kids were jumping into the pool beneath the pool. After hiking, I met Gordon and another couple at a Farmer's Market. Gordon and the other couple had toured a local museum that had some beautiful needle point/embroidery. Then we went out to lunch and home.
waterfall in Victoria Park Dead Dutch Elm Trees carved into figures. The city has several of these.
In the evening, I joined 12 others for a rafting trip in the Bay of Fundy. Here is what our wagon master wrote:
(Perhaps the most unusual tidal
bore in the world, at least from an adventure point of view, occurs daily on
the Bay of Fundy . We get a close-up
view, very close up, of high tide this afternoon when we don bright yellow
raingear and lumber over the bulging sides of a Zodiac river raft, sit on the
edge, grabbing tightly on a thick rope attached to the sides.
Connor pilots us a short distance into a
narrow bay as we await the arrival of the bore tide. “Giggle waves” is
what Connor names our first experience over the tide, a mere few inches
high. As the bore tide rushes into the narrowing Shubenacadie River
He drops us off at a sandbar in the middle of
the river. It looks wide enough for a hundred standing people but,
amazingly, it soon shrinks and seawater begins to swirl over our feet. We
climb quickly into the Zodiac before the sandbar island disappears beneath Hot Chocolate
water, frothy and richly reddish brown. “Hot” might also apply, or more
aptly, “warm” as the water is probably in the mid-70s.
We move in the direction of the tide,
frequently doubling back to ride the waves. At submerged sandbars the
water piles up to several feet and we plunge through the waves that engulf the
rubber boat and spray showers over our heads, down our backs, and into our
boots. Good thing the water is warm. The bore tide moves at a speed
of ~10mph and as we propel the six miles into the ever narrowing channel the
waves get higher and higher.
Just after the last sandbar-induced rapids we
reach the old dilapidated railroad bridge and the newer auto bridge.
Here, at the high perch marking the edge of the railroad bridge is the rest of
our caravan group, watching us with cameras in hand. About half took the
wild ride and the other half watched, probably both happy with their choice.
On the way back we pass our second Bald Eagle
nest and more Bald Eagles perched atop riverside trees. Connor tells us
the eagles are waiting for low tide to scoop up any stranded fish on the
vacated mudflats. Dark as these waters are, it is surprising to learn
that fish adopt the muddy river. Back at the origin of our bore tide
ride, the hot showers are welcomed, as is the real Hot Chocolate and
maple-flavored cookies.
Day 19 – July 18 – Grand Pré
(Bert, Wagon Master) While most of us remember fragments of Longfellow’s Evangeline story, few of us recall the real story behind the Acadians expulsion from New Brunswick and Nova Scotia 1755-63. We learn much of that history today through exhibits and an excellent professionally-produced dramatic film at Grand Pré National Historic Site. French-speaking, yet attempting a neutralist position between the French and British armies, the Acadians were caught in an impossible position. Both armies demanded loyalty to them only. Ultimately, the British distrusted the Acadians to the point that they forcefully removed them from the lands and homes the settlers had worked so hard to create and build. The British army confiscated the Acadian’s possessions and farmlands, burning their homes, and shipping them to New England, the English colonies, New Orleans, France, and even South America. Over 10,000 Acadians were deported, many of them dying in transport or becoming refugees without a country.
Grand Pre Memorial Church to Acadians
Acadians in fields
Information poster
Acadians building dype to claim marsh land Surprise Lobsters for supper
July 19, 2013
We stayed in an RV Park at Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia. We had a surprise dinner of lobster. The next day we had rain--the only sight seeing day with rain so far. (It has rained, but only at night.)
Our first stop was Port Royal Habitation. The Habitation is a reconstruction of one of the first European settlements in North America, founded in 1603 (older than Jamestown and Plymouth). We had a costumed interpreters describe the history of the place and describe life in the settlement. It is the exact dimensions of the original and it was reconstructed using methods used in the 1600's. It was only occupied by men. It was used primarily for fur trading, but fields were cultivated near Fort Ann?Annapolis Royal. French were the first settlers. It was later captured and burned by people from Jamestown who took everything usable. It was not rebuilt. Here the there was good rapport between the First Nations people and the French. The French, with Indian help, grew the the first cereal crops. The leader formed the Order of Good Cheer to occupy men throughout the winter. Each day a different gentleman organized a special activity for the benefit others. It might be a hunting party, play, special meal, etc. The winter survival rate was much higher once the club was established. The Habitation was really well done.
From upper level where furs Dining area. Govenor and gentlemen at center table in front of fire.
were stored Craft men on trestle tables on the sides
Next stop was the Historic Gardens. It is billed as a showcase of gardening methods and plant species. Some gardens were themed (Rose garden, native grasses). We saw a recreation of the English Govenor's Garden, Knot Garden (intricate patterns of interlocking hedge work), reclaimed marshes, innovative gardening techniques of the future, etc. It drizzled off and on while we were here.
Next we went for lunch at a German Bakery down the road. The two chefs were married and from the East German area of Saxony. Saxony is where Lucy's mother's family originated. They came in the 1990's in response to an ad for German Chef's to work in a German restaurant in Canada. The owner did a poor job managing, and the restaurant went bankrupt. The couple's neighbors worked with them to get the equivalent of green cards. After 2-3 years they had their cards and started the restaurant. We just had soup, sandwiches and blueberry crisp (or something like it) for lunch. I would have loved to come back for a German supper. The menu sounded so good. Instead we bought apple kuchen for breakfast.
After lunch we walked Ft. Ann or Annapolis Royal. It is the largest National Historic District in Canada. In 1605 it was settled by a small group of French Explorers (the same group as the Habitation) two years before Jamestown, Virginia and three years before the founding of Quebec, and 15 years before Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Massachusetts. There was a 150 year struggle for control of our continent. This area changed hands between the French and English. The French constructed one of four forts on this site. In 1710 the British captured Port-Royal and renamed it Annapolis Royal to honor Queen Ann. The fort was named Fort AnneIt remained captial until Halifax was started in 1749. Ft. Anne is now the oldest continuously-operated National Historic Site in Canada. The star shaped fortifications are among the country's best Vauban earthenworks.
officers' quarters, now has exhibits Grist Stone brought in from different area
completed by residents depicting history At one time there were more than 70 buildings
Ft. Anne. Queen Elizabeth has a few stitches in the fort and the town of Royal Annapolis was flourishing
in it
c
Cemetery dating from 1600's but there Oldest building on site, the powder magazine.
are no monuments left from that time
We went home after our trip to Ft. Anne. Then after a rest we toured the only operated tidal turbine in N. America. It was built as a prototype in the early 1980's during the oil crisis and is still running. It was built in the Bay of Fundy because of the very high tides. Other tidal turbines have been built in the area but have not been successful. Scotland has a successful tidal turbine.
July 20, 2013
We had only a 89 mile drive today. Most of us left late and stopped at Kejimkujik National Park. Gordon and I hiked a couple of 2 KM trails. along the river. It was very scenic. The road was very curvy and had no shoulders. Overall, it was a tough, short drive.
To make things interesting, lots of little things are affecting our trailer. The shower curtain has cracks (thank goodness for duck tape), two more drawer slides broke (we thought we had replaced all of them twice, but these two were the originals), a blind cord broke (I keep it up with bungee cord). We entertained some tent campers when we hooked up Saturday. The hitch on the truck was higher than the one on the trailer. For some reason, the jack would not raise the trailer any higher. Eventually, we placed boards under the front tires of the truck and it lowered the back enough that it worked. Gordon had the hitch and ball lined up on the second attempt, but it took us 2 to 3 times longer than usual to connect.
We had a LEO last night (Let's Eat Out). We went to an excellent restaurant and really enjoyed our meal (seafood of course).
Sunday, July 21
Today is Ella's birthday. She turned two today. I hope she had a good day.
The only thing arranged for today was a tour of the fish museum. It was very interesting. The first hour was a guided tour and then we were on our own. Cod fishing used to be the main method of livelihood here. Several different methods were used. Initally, men fished off the side of sailing boats with just a jig line. Then dories were sent from sailing fish and dropped line with multiple hooks. The dories formed a circle around the boat. Finally trawlers with front or side nets were employed. It was so successful that the cod salting industry failed, because of over fishing. Lobster fishing is now the number one occupation followed by scallop gathering. Tourism has to be important too. In the 1920's this area was important for rum running during prohibition. The term "real McCoy" is a liquor running term. McCoy was a rum runner. He never diluted his liquor. If you purchased liquor from him it was the "real McCoy."
After our tour, we went home for lunch. Then we walked downtown (all down hill), listened to a concert in the park (fold music, mostly from Scotland and Ireland), checked out the shops, and finished looking at exhibits in the museum. Tomorrow we to to Halifax (only a 50 mile drive). I hope to get some laundry done.
performers at concert
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